The earthen clan houses of China’s Fujian province are home to the Hakkas who migrated from China’s central plains.
AN April 2004 article in the People’s Daily Online describes an incident in 1985 in which a western intelligence report purportedly claimed a surveillance satellite had detected a nuclear base in the southern part of China’s Fujian province. The base was ostensibly housed in clusters of large, mushroom-shaped structures that the satellite could not identify or penetrate.
According to the article, a couple from a photography institute in New York went to investigate the site. In a hilarious twist to the tale, they discovered that the structures did not contain the presumed sophisticated nuclear arsenal but instead, communities of rustic Hakka farmers living in mud-walled communal dwellings called tulou.
Nestled deep in the verdant mountains of southwest Fujian, these remote clan houses are distributed over several counties. My curiosity aroused by the People’s Daily article, I joined a tour last month to Yongding near the Guangdong border, where many tulou communities are located.
The highway from Xiamen to Yongding took us through Zhangzhou, famed for narcissus – traditionally a lunar New Year flower – and the training base of China’s women’s volleyball team, winner of the Athens Olympics gold. From Zhangzhou we travelled over 100km through layered hills lush with banana and feathery bamboo, on an extra-ordinary highway with some 80 mountain bridges elevated 80m above ground and more than two dozen tunnels, some nearly 3km long.
Finally, we arrived in Longyan – the heart of Fujian’s Hakka country and home of world badminton champion Lin Dan. According to our knowledgeable guide, the county’s population of 2.88 million is 80% Hakka.
Yongding is two hours from Longyan along a winding mountain road. The round tulou, with their yellow mud walls topped with deep grey roofs do indeed look like giant mushrooms. They are doughnut-shaped, with a large open courtyard in the middle, and constructed in four tiers – kitchen and dining areas on the ground level; food storage on the second; and sleeping quarters on the third and fourth.
In a quadrangle-shaped tulou, I met a young man who volunteered that he is the 24th generation descendant of the building’s founder, which dates the structure back some 500 or 600 years. He said his ancestor had migrated south from Henan province in China’s central plains, the original home of the Hakka people.
Indeed, the last thousand years have seen large numbers of people from the north arriving in the provinces of Jiangxi, Fujian and Guangdong to escape war, famine and natural disasters. Our guide said there is also a community descended from Ming dynasty soldiers sent to pacify the region.
Called Hakka (kejia) or “guest people” by the earlier settlers who occupied the fertile lowlands, these later migrants were forced into remote, often hostile mountainous areas where they devised defensive fortresses of mud. With walls some 1.2m thick at the bottom and strengthened with glutinous rice and brown sugar, the tulou we visited have no windows at ground level. Our guide also pointed out a feature above external doors that allowed water, sand or hot oil to be poured onto enemies.
 |
|
Rustic charm: A round tulou in scenic Yongding
|
Zhenchenglou, the largest tulou in Yongding, was built in 1912, and has several hundred rooms housing an entire extended clan. I had imagined that Hakkas were primarily poor rural farmers but the family of Zhenchenglou highly valued education, produced a number of scholars and were affluent.
Our guide said some attribute the family’s success to their tulou’s good fengshui. Its octagonal (bagua) contour is shaped like a mandarin’s hat and all the architectural elements are in multiples of eight.
Couplets (duilian) on the walls and columns in Zhenchenglou’s courtyard extol the virtues of education and hard work. In traditional male-dominated Hakka society, however, education was primarily the preserve of men who were expected to find work outside the village. Women took care of everything else, from tending the fields to raising the children. So it came as no surprise when our guide revealed that till today, non-Hakkas of the area, her parents included, actively discourage daughters from marrying Hakka men.
Surrounded by luxuriant hills and undulating rice fields, Yongding is scenic and idyllic. A clear stream runs through the settlement, where grain and the main cash crop, tobacco, are laid out to dry on open ground. Villagers preserve much of their vegetables, from the sweet-salty meicai that we enjoyed steamed with pork, to dried soup vegetables and herbs. Qing dynasty Empress Cizi was apparently a fan of the local dried sweet potato strips.
In today’s China, the old is all too easily discarded for the new in the name of progress. Happily, the sturdy tulou fortresses of south Fujian still retain much of their bucolic ambience and flavour. I am told Yongding is soon to be listed as a Unesco World Heritage Site so we can rest easy knowing that this unique legacy of the resilient Hakka people will be preserved for future generations.
Ziying makes frequent trips to China to refurbish a traditional family house in her ancestral village. She can be reached at ziyingster@gmail.com.